Goblin Kart Rear Axle

edited June 2014 in IET Formula Goblin
My school has just recently joined the Goblin Kart family. Our first competition was at Ford Dunton in May. After competing we carried on testing the kart back at school. During these tests, the kart stopped working. Upon further investigation, the rear axle appears to have been worn away leading to poor (zero) traction with the taper lock bush.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I could repair this minimal damage? Our school does not have the funds at the moment to buy a new axle.

Any help would be appreciated.



  • there are 3 places to put a grubscrew in a taperlok. The 2 that are sort of opposite each other tighten it up. The other one is for loosening it again. If you put 3 grubscrews in "to make it better", the tighteners fight with the loosener & you end up with a loose pulley. Only put the 2 grubscrews in for running. When dismantling take both out and use one in the other hole to push out the insert.
  • Thanks for the comment Bob. I think our problem is a worn axle rather than the grub screws. The bush only ever had the two tighteners, never put all three in.
  • edited June 2014
    Hi Allan
    if the axle has worn, just move the motor and axle pulleys 2cm to one side where it isn't worn.
    It can only have worn if it wasn't tightened properly, not something I've ever seen with a correctly fitted taperlock; hence the question about "grubscrew" fitment above. Which I'll reiterate, there are 3 holes the grubscrews will go into - you must align the insert (bush) correctly and use the correct "tightening" holes (they will be almost opposite each other). there are several ways to get a tightener and a loosener in there & hence not tighten the taperlock!
    If you've worn the axle, you'll also have worn the taperlock insert; they are cheap enough to buy from the usual places, probably ebay is your best bet: you need to specify axle diameter and taperlock size which is a 4 digit code
    on ebay search for taperlock bush e.g.
    The 4 digit code will be stamped/etched into the bush that you already have
    The tightening holes have threads on the pulley and none on the bush. The loosener has thread on the bush and a plain stopped "half hole" on the pulley. Hope that makes some sort of sense.
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