36spoke 20mm thu-axle hubs

Hi everyone, great day at Dunsfold last Sunday - the weather was kind and we survived the day intact this year !

We are about to order a set of 4 MTB hubs from the manufacturer in China (spec = 36 spoke, 20mm thru-axle, front hub, 6 hole disc brake fixing) - at £30 each which is much cheaper than I've seen on ebay. If we order more we can get the price down further. Is anyone interested ? I need to know within a week or two.


  • Are these for suitable for building up into 16' wheels?
  • Probably....we have 16" wheels on our old FR-1 with 20mm thru-axles.......they came from KMX Karts and also had disc rotor mounts. Suspect they may be Chinese but can't say.
  • I've built 4 wheels with similar hubs (36 spoke 20mm thru axle, 6 hole brake disk) but for 20" rims. Works very well if you are careful building them !
  • Don't be tempted to lace lots of crosses in them Cookie. We've run 2 cross without incident.
  • From my experience in the cycle trade I would be very wary of cheap Chinese hubs and bearings , there is usually a very good reason why the are a fraction of the price of Halo or Hope hubs- remember the old adage "buy cheap buy twice "
    And yes " whs" 2 cross on 16" wheels is great , 3 cross on 20 " wheels also great and relatively easy to do.
  • I'll have to get this one talked through: it depends on what we need the wheels for.
  • At the end of the day you have to consider how often these wheels/hubs are expected to be used......how many races would you expect to attend each season? It's not as though you are using them to cycle to work every day. Finance permitting I'd always go for the best but being realistic why would I really need to when considering how often these components are being used? If your tight on finance then I would suggest that the Chinese option is probably good enough for the amount of wear and tear they are going to be subjected to. Having said all of that I do admit to having some of our hubs hand made and bespoke but for a very good purpose and only because we have generous sponsors.
  • The rear wheels on our last few cars have been 16" rims laced to 20mm thru-axles, although budget has allowed for branded ones. I've no experience of running cheaper ones, but assuming they're replaceable sealed bearings they should be ok... 20mm thru-axle hubs are designed for the front end of a downhill mountain bike so even cheap ones should be able to take more of a beating than they get on a GP car (pure speculation there!)

    Over time we've ran 1 cross (couple of years ago, no idea why) which needed a decent bit or truing/maintenance and have since all been converted to 2 cross, and also 3 cross as an experiment. The 3 cross creates quite a bend in the spokes as they enter the spoke nipple which looked like it would create quite a weak point in the spoke, however we never had any issues with them. For ease of lacing and durability we settled on 2 cross, seems to be working for us.
  • We used a Nuvinci hub built into a 16" wheel for 1 race. 1 cross was all it needed. 2 cross would have had the spokes doubling back on the hub ;-)
  • The main problem is the lousy bearings that pretend to be "abec 7" because who's going to disprove it ? A good compromise would possibly be the budget hubs with some decent quality bearings say SKF that are actually not very expensive at all . The first greenpower wheels I supplied were for Team TRS Prometheus (remember that one ?) they were Hope hubs ,SKF bearings, dead cheap 20" Diamond Back bmx rims with 4 cross stainless spokes . I chose cheapo rims so that they would take any destructive forces and be sacrificed thus hopefully ( no pun intended) saving the more costly hubs , Don't forget you can always buy a pair of hubs as and when funds are available , many good independent bike shops would sell you the hubs at trade plus vat for a mention in a teams blog or school newsletter , thats what I did for Team TRS .
  • Many local bike shops would also sell you only the bits that you need - we bought Hope Pro II hubs at under half price by just buying the body of the hub as we knew we were going to change the bearings. You do need a spacer to keep the centre of the bearings the right distance apart, or use differently sized bearings with a stepped axle.
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